1) Cable Release
This is a short cable that plugs into a DSLR camera, enabling remote control of the shutter. It is designed to prevent camera shake during longer exposures, (e.g. more than a second), where pressing the shutter button could bump the camera. An alternative is the use of the camera’s in-built self-timer.
A more expensive and versatile version is an Intervalometer, which the user can program to take photos at set intervals – perfect for time-lapses and shooting star trails at night. These are quite expensive and require batteries. Try some best lenses for Canon 80D 2017.
2) Memory Cards
Nowadays, there are essentially three types of Memory Card for digital cameras:
• SD cards – (Secure Digital) These are the most common, and are available everywhere. The fancy version, the SDXC (for Xtra Capacity) have a higher storage capacity and faster processing speeds – only important if you’re shooting sports or the like.
Micro-SD cards – Originally made for phones and audio equipment, some cameras such as Go-Pros use these. While they only store up to 2 gigabytes of data, the SDHC versions offer up to 32 gigs. Warning: they are tiny, and easy to lose!
CF cards – Compact Flash cards are fast, large and solid, but may be superseded by the prevalence of SD cards.
Again, this applies to owners of DSLR cameras. Filters are accessories that
can be inserted into the optical path to modify the photo… either a square shape and mounted in a holder, or more commonly, a circular piece of glass, which can be screwed into the front of the camera’s lens.
Polariser. This is an expensive piece of glass, but will darken blue skies, saturate colours, as well as reduce glare and nasty reflections in the water. A must-buy for landscapes!
Serious landscapers carry a range of Neutral Density filters which slip into a dedicated filter holder.
These are used to tame a bright sky, or to slow down moving water, and especially to get that stock-standard, blurry waterfall shot. Manufacturers include Cokin, Formatt and Lee. Graduated Neutral Density filters are similar to the NDs, but have a vignette from dark to light. The purpose here is to tame a bright sky, and balance the exposure of a high-contrasting scene, in-camera.
Perhaps the most difficult part of learning photography is understanding how a camera works. Many tutorials can be confusing, as mere words do not adequately illustrate the subject. This form of eBook is not the best way to learn about exposure, so only a basic definition and overview will be given.
1) Definition – In photography, an exposure generally refers to a single shot; the time period when the camera’s sensor is exposed to light. If there’s too much light shining into the camera lens, the scene will be overexposed. If there’s too little light coming into the lens, the scene will be under-exposed.
2) Exposure Triangle – The combination of three factors, which make up a photograph. These are Aperture, Shutter Speed, and ISO rating. They all work together, so when one of these factors is changed, the other two factors will be affected with best slow motion camera.
3) Aperture – The size of the lens opening, measured in f-stops. A wide
aperture will allow lots of light into the camera. A narrow aperture will only let a little light into the camera.
If your camera has a Mode Dial, switch to the A or AV symbol. This ‘aperture priority’ mode is great for most genres of photography, particularly landscapes and portraits, and when you wish to control how much of a scene is in focus.
4) Shutter Speed – length of time when the camera’s sensor (or film) is exposed to light. The shutter is the mechanism that opens and closes, to allow or prevent light entering the camera.
Shutter speed is measured in seconds -or in fractions of seconds. The bigger the denominator, the faster the speed. For instance, i/ioooth of a second is much faster than i/ioth of a second.
If hand-holding your camera, you will have difficulty avoiding camera shake if the shutter speed is slower the i/6oth of second. You will need to use a tripod to stabilise the camera, and thus avoid blurry photos.
If your camera has a Mode Dial, switch to the S or TV symbol. This ‘shutter priority’ mode is great for fast-moving subjects, such as sports and action, when you wish to freeze the motion. Alternatively, if you wish to capture a long exposure, switch to Bulb (B) mode. You can keep the shutter open for as long as you hold it down.
5) ISO Rating – This is how sensitive the camera’s sensor is to the light, similar to how the human eye works. Many cameras give you the option of changing this setting. It’s best to use a low ISO number, such as 100. A high ISO setting will allow the image sensor to perform better in low light, but it also will create more stray pixels, called noise.
6) Metering – The camera can automatically decide how much light to let in. You can determine how the camera does this, by choosing a metering option.
Matrix metering. Matrix metering is okay for photos that don’t have an obvious focal point or subject.
Centre-weighted metering. This assigns the greatest emphasis for determining exposure on the centre of the frame.
Spot metering. Spot metering is useful when your subject is off-centre, or when your subject is back-lit.